Walking up Fortess Road, we spotted a protuding 'Tabac' sign and had a brief trompe l'oeil moment.

The streetscape said Kentish Town, but the shopfronts - and those familiar brasserie rattan chairs and tables - conjured a Parisian arondissement.

Zut Alors! we must be in 'Kentishville' that corner of NW5 colonised by French families drawn to the nearby bilingual school and expanses of Hampstead Heath.

This particular French invasion has given much-needed Gallic flair to a neighbourhood that wasn't hitherto gastronomically blessed.

Our destination - just past the 'Tabac bar' was Patron. Opened seven years ago by Anglo-French couple Jean-Francois and Tanzi, it serves classics from escargots to confit duck and is the type of cosy neighbourhood restaurant that's hailed a 'hidden gem'.

Not so hidden perhaps, it has grown so popular that they took over an adjoining vape shop and knocked through, peeling back layers of history to uncover an old butcher's complete with white tiles, meat hooks and weathered sink.

They've stripped things back to marble topped tables and leather and velvet banquettes with occasional design features purchased from a French brocante. It feels more open and industrial than the cheek-by-elbow charm of the original, but allows bookings for larger groups, private hire and Christmas parties.

No doubt the atmosphere will blossom with time. There's a rear courtyard and spirit lounge with a dimly-lit speakeasy vibe, salvaged piano and handpainted ceiling where we enjoyed creative cocktails including a glorious confection with egg white, elderflower, gin and zing of Thai chili which elevated it to the sublime. 

Starters were a comforting French onion soup, and goats cheese tart - a disc of flaky pastry topped with caramelised onions, a crottin de chevre and spoonful of pesto. Patron do some twists on classics - a deep fried dauphinois with sriracha - but mostly they please the crowds with the likes of a baked St Marcellin cheese, steak tartare or terrine.

Mains include slow-cooked duck confit and mussels, but we plumped for an impeccably cooked onglet steak with on point crispy fries (French naturally), and a boeuf bourgignon. Cooked with care to identify lardons, button onions and mushrooms in a winey jus, it paired famously with a creamy potato gratin and a glass of Malbec.

The admirably pared down menu boasts just three desserts, creme brulee, cheese of the month, or 'guilt-free' chocolate mousse. Dolloped out of what looks like grand-mere's favourite bowl it's light, chocolate speckled and there was no danger of my feeling guilty about eating it.

The whole operation reveals as much care with the decor as it the food, every detail has been thought about to create a memorable evening.

Jean-Francois compares Kentish Town to Paris' ecclectic and diverse 11th arondissement, adding: "We’ve always felt a strong connection to this area of London. Perhaps it's the amount of French living here! A slice of Paris in our Kentish Town neighbourhood."

'Encore.'

Patron and Patron Next Door is at 26 Fortess Road, NW5. They have just launched a Sunday Roast and are now open Sunday lunchtimes from 12-2.30pm. https://patronrestaurant.com/